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Alpine Loop Scenic Byway

Story and photos by Kathryn Retzler

The Alpine Loop The Alpine Loop is a Scenic Byway, a special designation noted by signs showing the blue Columbine, Colorado’s state flower. Unlike most byways, this one is a rugged, four-wheel drive route over steep mountain passes. It follows mining and stage trails laid out more than a century ago, and winds through many ghost towns, past mining relics, cascading waterfalls, fields of alpine wildflowers, and some of the most spectacular scenery in the world!

Watch for animals, too. Those little white dots on the mountainsides might just be sheep. (This is still open range country.) Less easy to spot, but there if you look closely, are Big Horn Sheep, wild goats, marmonts, chipmunks, elk, deer — no, they don’t turn into elk in the fall — and all sorts of other critters. You might even come across a “big kitty” or brown bear. Be careful around all of them. This isn’t a zoo. Don’t get too close and never try to pet wild animals.

Silverton. First known as Baker’s Park, after the man who discovered this wide, flat valley before the Civil War, the name was changed to reflect what came out of the surrounding mountains —  “Silver by the Ton!” At one time, the town, located at 9,300 feet, boasted over 2,000 residents and was one of the bawdiest, rowdiest mining towns in the San Juans. Today, it’s tourists, not gold and silver, that go up and down the mountain on the narrow gauge rails that have served the town for 120 years.nd silver, that go up and down the mountain on the narrow gauge rails that have served the town for 120 years.

Animas Forks. The town was laid out in 1877. By 1885 it was connected to Ouray, Lake City, and Silverton by daily stages and by telephone lines running over Engineer Pass. In 1904, at 11,160 feet, Animas Forks boasted the highest railroad in America. Many of the buildings still stand, including an old school and the famous  three-story Walsh House, owned by Thomas Walsh who purchased the Hope Diamond for his wife.

Ouray. Appropriately called the “Gem of the Rockies” and “Little Switzerland of America,” the city of Ouray nestles in a steep v-shaped valley in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. Surrounded by snowcapped peaks, several topping 14,000 feet, the jewel-like Victorian town, at 7,700 feet, is an historical journey, a scenic feast. The town, like its loop neighbors Silverton and Lake City, is designated a National Historic District. Originally named Uncompahgre City, after the Ute word that means “hot water springs,” the name was changed in honor of Ute Chief Ouray who signed  the Brunot Treaty, opening the San Juans to mining and settlement.
 
Lake City.
Named after Lake San Cristobol, the second largest natural lake in Colorado, Lake City, at 8,761 feet, is not the highest on the loop, but some say it is the prettiest. Lake City also had the first telephone system in the state, with connecting service to Silverton, Ouray, Capitol City, Rose’s Cabin, Mineral Point and Animas Forks. Another first was a boisterous Fourth of July Celebration, which soon became a big day for all mining towns. The tradition continues today.

The Silverton Magazine. Copyright 2000-2010
Published by San Juan Publishing Group, Inc., Colorado 
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